January 2025 Newsletter

Kyoto Prefecture Tea Industry Promotion Plan (Daiki T.)

Kyoto Prefecture Tea Industry Promotion Plan

In 2024 and 2025, I was honored to be selected as a Committee Member for formulating Kyoto Prefecture’s five-year tea industry promotion plan and will be participating in the discussion meetings.

The committee consists of seven members, including prominent figures in Uji tea production and processing, such as Mr. Horii from Horii Shichimeien, Mr. Morishita from Kyoei Seicha, and Mr. Yoshida, renowned for his hand-picked Gyokuro production. Additionally, professionals from the culinary and research fields are also involved, making it a great honor to be part of this esteemed group.

While matcha is currently experiencing an unprecedented boom to the point of store-level supply restrictions, all committee members share a deep concern for the future of the tea-producing regions. With increasing demand, other tea-producing areas in Japan, such as Kagoshima and Shizuoka, are shifting to matcha production with national subsidies. Furthermore, matcha is now being produced in China and Thailand. Amid this intensifying competition, Kyoto must find ways to preserve its reputation for high quality while addressing severe labor shortages and ensuring the sustainability of its tea-growing regions.

Kyoto, including Wazuka Town, is mountainous, preventing large-scale mechanized farming. However, the region’s climate, with its significant temperature variations, high humidity near rivers, and mineral-rich soil, is ideal for producing high-quality, aromatic tea. Effectively communicating these unique characteristics is crucial. Additionally, the traditional methods of shading tea plants with woven reeds and straw, combined with hand-picking techniques, are fundamental to Uji Matcha and Gyokuro production. These labor-intensive practices are integral to the history and culture of Uji tea, and mechanisms must be developed to enhance their market value and ensure the continuous availability of skilled workers.

Currently, the definition of "Matcha" is not widely understood by consumers. The presence or absence of shading, shading methods, harvest timing, cultivar selection, and origin should be clearly communicated, much like the classification of wine. Establishing a certification system that transparently conveys the cultivation background of tea to consumers is becoming increasingly essential.

Furthermore, training global ambassadors who can effectively communicate the superior quality, cultural significance, and historical background of Uji tea is also crucial. Personally, I believe this aspect is just as important as certification, and they should go hand in hand.

Rather than being swept up in the current matcha boom, we must take proactive steps now to establish Kyoto’s competitive advantage through its inherent value. It is reassuring to see that Kyoto Prefecture officials and most committee members share this sense of urgency. While my contribution may be modest, I am committed to leveraging my position as both a tea producer in Kyoto and an international advocate to further promote and sustain the industry.

D-matcha Co., Ltd.
Founder & CEO, Daiki Tanaka

What is Ceremonial Grade Matcha? (Seiya H.)

No matter how skilled one is at whisking or brewing tea, it is difficult to enjoy it if the quality of the tea itself is not consistent.

In the case of matcha, lower-quality matcha (mainly harvested after summer) is often used for confectionery (though it may also be sold as tea ceremony-grade). The matcha we use for tea ceremony purposes is always made from the first harvest of tea leaves (typically from May to early June).

At this point, there is no official standard that defines what level of matcha can be called ceremonial grade, so the matcha sold as ceremonial grade can vary between shops. When you visit a tea shop in Kyoto, most matcha is blended in-house, and some products may contain a mix of first and second harvest matcha.

For tea ceremony grade matcha, it is sometimes labeled as "for usucha" (thin tea) or "for koicha" (thick tea), but both are sold as tea ceremony grade at those stores. The matcha for koicha is considered the highest grade. Additionally, most matcha blends have specific names such as:

• ○○ no Shiro (for usucha)

• ○○ no Mukashi (for koicha)

These names often appear on the packaging. Depending on the shop, blends that are favored by tea masters may be sold as "Gokemoto-gonomi" (favored by the tea master) and are typically high-quality, luxury matcha that are popular at tea ceremonies. When I attended tea ceremony school, I enjoyed the matcha blends favored by various tea masters from different shops.

During a tea ceremony, there is a moment when guests may ask the host about the matcha. The name of the matcha is referred to as ocha-mei (tea name), and the shop is called otsume (the tea store).

As mentioned, if the tea is labeled with the names above, it is usually an indicator of good matcha. However, if the labeling is not present, you might need to taste it to determine its quality. Even if you purchase good matcha, its quality can deteriorate if exposed to oxygen, heat, or light, so proper storage to avoid these elements will help maintain its quality.

One way to distinguish high-quality matcha is by its vibrant green color. The more vivid the green, the more likely it is to be a high-quality matcha.

A Year of Learning and Growing in the World of Japanese Tea (S. Mahdaria)

It has almost been a year since I started working in Japan. I’m so grateful to have so many people around me who have helped me learn about Japanese tea, especially matcha. I’ve learned directly from helping out at the farm, making documentary videos at d:matcha, where I had to do extensive research to write the narration, and most importantly, from daily interactions with the farmers, producers, and tea sellers around me. The more I learn, the more I realize how little I know. The more I learn, the more careful I become when commenting on anything related to Japanese tea because I want to ensure that whatever I say is valid—based on data or the testimony of knowledgeable people in the industry.

I discussed with Daiki-san how to take my learning more seriously. Should I follow his path to become a Japanese Tea Instructor, or should I take the Tea Sommelier course in the USA, which is very expensive? He recommended I follow his path if I want to obtain a credible certification to teach and advise others about Japanese tea. Unfortunately, my biggest barrier is the language. The most credible Japanese tea certification is from the Nihoncha Instructor Association. However, all the materials, courses, and the exam are conducted in Japanese. It might take me years to learn Japanese first before I can take the test, since my Japanese is currently very basic.

I aspire to be a credible Tea Instructor who travels the world, teaching and sharing the beauty of tea—especially matcha—with people across the globe. Matcha has been my comfort drink for seven years now. It has helped me a lot to cope with stressful moments in my life and maintain my positive vibe. I want to bring that comfort, peacefulness, and happiness to the people I share my drink with.

It could be a long journey, with many things to learn, many teas to try, and many people to network with in the tea industry. Currently, I learn from three books, including Nihoncha No Subetegawakuhon from Nihoncha Instructor Association, Japanese Green Tea Practical Textbook from Daiki Tanaka, and  A Beginner`s Guide to Japanese Tea. But for now, I’m so grateful for all the opportunities coming my way. And of course, I want to give my utmost gratitude to all the people who have been so supportive throughout this time, especially Misato-san, Daiki-san, Hiroki-san, and Alan-kun.

Tea Harvest Season and Its Quality (Misato T.)

In Wazuka, tea can be harvested three times in a year. The tea plant is a perennial evergreen tree. Under suitable climatic conditions, it continuously produces new leaves. However, because Japan experiences winter, harvests cannot be done year-round. Depending on the region in Japan, tea can be harvested 3 to 4 times a year. In Wazuka Town, tea is harvested three times a year: in spring (late April to May), summer (June to July), and autumn (September to October). In warmer, tropical regions, tea can be harvested four times a year.

Winter Makes Japanese Tea Taste Better
During Japan's harsh winter, tea plants enter dormancy. From autumn to winter, and from winter to early spring, the tea plant absorbs and stores nutrients from the soil. This is why the new buds harvested in spring are rich in amino acids, making them delicious. The presence of four distinct seasons in Japan is crucial for Japanese tea, which places great importance on umami (the savory taste).

Harvest Time and Quality
The quality of tea varies greatly depending on the harvest season. The first flush harvested in spring has the highest amino acid content of the year. Spring tea leaves are tender and thin, and they are even delicious when eaten raw. In contrast, autumn leaves are thick and tough.

Figure 1 shows the differences in amino acid and tannin content between the first flush (ichibancha) and third flush (sanbancha). The amino acid content is higher in the first flush, while tannin, which contributes to bitterness, is more abundant in the third flush. In other words, the first flush has a strong umami flavor, while the umami decreases and bitterness increases in the second and third flushes.

The Importance of Harvest Timing
Even within the same harvest season, it is crucial to harvest at the optimal time. As the leaves grow, the amino acid content decreases. This is particularly noticeable in the first flush, where the amino acid content changes significantly over time. If the tea is harvested too late, the amino acid content will be lower, the leaves will become tougher, and the tea quality will drop. Therefore, it is important to harvest on the right day to ensure the best quality.

Harvest Timing: One Bud and Two Leaves

Generally, tea is harvested when the top bud and two small leaves, known as isshin-niha (one bud and two leaves), are ready. The ideal time is when the top bud begins to open. If harvested too early, the umami compounds haven't fully developed in the leaves, resulting in a tea with a weak flavor. In reality, the exact timing for harvesting can vary from year to year, so it is crucial to carefully assess the situation based on experience

Tea Amino Acids Convert to Catechins Under Light

Tea contains amino acids, the majority of which are theanine. The diagram below shows the estimated pathway from theanine to catechins. Light controls the conversion of theanine to catechins through the A-ring pathway. Therefore, in the presence of light, the synthesis of catechins, which contribute to bitterness, is promoted from theanine.

Figure: Biosynthesis Pathway of Catechins (Estimated)
Ryokyo Saijo, "The Flavor of Tea 1) Biosynthesis and Chemical Changes of Catechins" (1994)

Cover cultivation can prevent the conversion of amino acids into catechins

Tea grown under cover benefits from the protective effect of the cover, which helps prevent the decrease in amino acid content. This is one of the reasons for growing shaded tea, such as matcha and kabusecha. On the other hand, unshaded teas like sencha experience a faster decrease in amino acids, so the harvest window is shorter, and it becomes more critical to precisely determine the right time to harvest compared to matcha.

Figure: Changes in Components Due to Shading

Anan et al.; Tea Technology Research Institute (1974)

Replanting for Variety Renewal (Hiroki A.)

There are many varieties of Japanese tea, and most of these varieties are developed at agricultural research stations established in various tea-producing regions. These varieties are selected and bred according to several breeding goals. What’s interesting is that these breeding goals reflect the demands of each tea-producing region. For example, in Kyoto, where the cultivation of Tencha (the raw material for Gyokuro and Matcha) is active, the breeding goal focuses on characteristics suitable for covered cultivation. On the other hand, in regions like Kagoshima, which targets quick harvesting of sencha, early-season varieties like "Shuntaro" are developed with that goal in mind.

The characteristics of each variety are both its strengths and weaknesses. The Kyoto variety "Gokou," for example, is specialized for producing high-quality Gyokuro with a rich taste when covered cultivation is used, but when grown in open-air conditions (the opposite of covered cultivation), the new shoots harden quickly and the unique aroma of the variety becomes stronger, which makes Gokou grown in open fields have low market value. The more common Yabukita variety, on the other hand, produces a fresh and refreshing scent (referred to as "Seikou") and is highly regarded as sencha, but when growing Tencha, its strong Seikou can interfere with the covering scent (the aroma that develops during covered cultivation).

Thus, the characteristics of each variety have both advantages and disadvantages, and by selecting a variety that matches the purpose, the characteristics of that variety can be maximized. Of course, high-quality matcha can also be made from Yabukita, but with the same cultivation management, varieties specialized for covered tea cultivation, like those from Kyoto, will tend to outperform.

Currently, Japanese tea, especially matcha, is recognized globally and there is unprecedented demand. In response to this global demand, our company has been replanting from existing varieties like Yabukita to varieties specialized for covered cultivation, such as Ujihikari, Houshun, Tenmyou, and Komakage, in order to meet the demand for high-quality matcha. Although the economic downside of replanting is significant, as harvesting cannot be done from young trees for about five years, the benefits of specialized matcha varieties far outweigh the drawbacks.

This Year's Resolution (Sora N.)

In January, I made parfaits at Abeno Harukas in Osaka! Since it was my first time making parfaits, I was a little nervous, but everything went smoothly, and I was able to finish without any issues.

It’s been about 8 months since I joined D-matcha. There are still many things I'm inexperienced in, but I'm working hard every day. Now, for this year's resolution, I want to challenge myself with new things and continue improving. I am in charge of pastry making at D:matcha, but there are still many things I can't do. Therefore, if I can try as many new things as possible and increase the skills I can do, it will benefit both myself and the company. Additionally, I believe that instead of waiting for instructions, taking the initiative to challenge myself is key to achieving this goal. For example, I’m not very good at expressing my opinions, so one of my goals this year is to proactively make suggestions for new product development or take initiative in farm work. I want to aim for my goals while enjoying the process of trying new things and not running away from things I'm not good at.

There is a saying, "Perseverance is power," and I believe that consistency will become a great strength in everything. I think of consistency as the easiest way to approach a goal, but it only has meaning if you are consciously thinking about the process and actions while continuing. It's not just about coming to work and going home at the end of the day, but recognizing the small changes, like things you did well or areas for improvement, even in minor details, is the first step in continuing. I hope this year will be one where I can continue to take on challenges without being fixated on the results!