September 2025 Newsletter
Traceabili-Tea (Daiki T.)
In August 2025, we launched an initiative called Traceabili Tea, a project to clearly indicate on all of our products which fields the tea was harvested from and which factory it was processed in.
During my visit to Singapore in early August 2025, I was struck by how many consumers enjoyed matcha without knowing its true origin or production process. Many cafés and tea houses were serving Chinese-produced matcha under Japanese-style names, and customers genuinely believed they were consuming Japanese matcha.
Traditionally, Uji tea and Uji matcha follow a system where farmers cultivate the tea leaves, which are then processed into tencha. Tea wholesalers further refine the tencha into matcha, with tea masters (specialists known for blending) adjusting each batch to create a uniform product that matches the preferences of their clients, even as natural conditions cause slight variations each year. As a result, unlike wine, the origin and cultivar of tea leaves have long remained invisible to consumers.
At d:matcha, we manage everything from cultivation to processing and sales. This unique structure allows us not only to provide high-quality products but also to share the background information with our customers. Our aim is to make this information as transparent as possible. While this initiative begins as a company-level effort, our long-term vision is to involve Kyoto Prefecture so that public institutions can help guarantee the accuracy of such traceability data. We strongly believe that transparency around origin, cultivars, and processing methods will protect and enhance the competitive edge of our production region. For premium products in particular, we expect that blockchain technology will one day play a crucial role in ensuring the reliability of this information.
Traditionally, traceability has been discussed primarily in the context of food safety. At d:matcha, however, we already implement a wide range of safety and quality measures: At the field level: pesticide residue tests, heavy metal tests, nutritional analysis, and disclosure of JAS Organic certifications At the product level (final matcha): monthly microbial tests, including general bacterial count and E. coli testing.
We will continue to do our utmost to ensure that customers can enjoy our teas with peace of mind—together with the knowledge of the farms, processing facilities, and stories behind them.
Inside Shizuoka’s Tea Research Center (S. Mahdaria)
I love learning! As part of our business trip to Shizuoka last month, we visited a tea research center called ChaOI-PARC. At first, I was a bit confused because the entire explanation was in Japanese. Luckily, by the end of the session, my coworkers summarized everything in English.
Although I learned many things during the visit, I’d like to share some highlights and mind-blowing facts. The research center has developed 2,500 tea genes from both Japanese and foreign cultivars, including China, India, and other countries. In their research, they experiment with 6,000 tea genes per year. However, it takes about 13 years to develop a new cultivar. Sayamakaori is one of the first cultivars they successfully grew.
These days, many matcha producers, especially in Kagoshima, sell the Tsuyuhikari cultivar. I initially thought it might have come from there, but it turns out Tsuyuhikari is actually a Shizuoka cultivar! Unfortunately, tea farming conditions in Shizuoka are challenging due to aging farmers and a lack of successors to inherit the farms, which affects the production of high-quality tea. The Shizuoka government encourages local farmers to switch from the Yabukita cultivar to Tsuyuhikari because of its better taste and higher yield.
While most tea cultivars can be harvested three times a year, Tsuyuhikari can be harvested four times. It has large leaves and numerous buds, allowing farmers to harvest more tea from a single crop. The research center spent 55 years perfecting Tsuyuhikari for mass planting.
Unfortunately, it’s difficult for Shizuoka farmers to switch from Yabukita to Tsuyuhikari, as it takes about five years from planting until the first harvest. Some people are pessimistic and believe it may be too late. This is why many young and ambitious tea farmers in Kagoshima actively produce Tsuyuhikari in their region.
History of Japanese Tea (Misato T.)
The Spread of Tea to the World
The tea plant (Camellia sinensis) is believed to have originated in the mountainous regions of Yunnan Province in China, near the border with Vietnam. Around 2700 BCE, the legendary Emperor Shennong is said to have discovered tea as a medicine, and during the Tang dynasty, it spread throughout China.
In the 16th century, the Portuguese were the first Europeans to taste tea in China. Later, the Dutch began exporting it to countries such as England, and by the 17th century, tea had become popular across Europe.
Large-scale tea production in India began in 1823, when the British adventurer Robert Bruce discovered a new tea variety, later known as the “Assam type,” growing wild in Assam. Since this variety suited India’s climate, large-scale plantation agriculture quickly spread across the country.
The Beginnings of Tea in Japan
In Japan, it is believed that people had long brewed infusions from various leaves (similar to what we would now call herbal tea). However, the first clear record of Camellia sinensis being consumed dates back to 815 (the Heian period). It is thought that emperors and certain monks drank tea brought back from their studies in Tang China.
At that time, tea was not the same as the tea we know today. Instead, it was likely “compressed tea” (餅茶 mocha), which was popular in Tang China. Its color is believed to have been closer to black tea.
The Beginnings of Tea Cultivation in Japan
In 1191, the monk Eisai, who had studied Buddhism in China, is said to have established Japan’s very first tea garden in Hirado, Nagasaki, shortly after returning home. In his book Kissa Yōjōki (Drinking Tea for Health), he begins with the words: “Tea is the elixir of life. It is the wondrous art of prolonging one’s years.” The work emphasizes the many health benefits of tea.
From the descriptions in this book, it appears that tea in Japan at the time was consumed in a form similar to the powdered tea drunk in China. In Japan, this practice later evolved into the unique culture of the tea ceremony (chanoyu) and matcha. In China, however, loose-leaf tea (散茶 sancha) eventually became mainstream, and the custom of drinking powdered tea faded away.
The Spread of Tea Cultivation and Zen
As mentioned earlier, Eisai gifted tea seeds to the monk Myōe of Kōzan-ji Temple in Kyoto, from which tea cultivation gradually spread, with Kyoto as its center. Tea, known for its ability to dispel drowsiness, was welcomed by monks engaged in rigorous training.
The Flourishing of the Tea Ceremony and Politics
Murata Jukō (1422–1502), regarded as the founder of the Japanese tea ceremony, studied under the Zen monk Ikkyū and incorporated Zen philosophy into the practice of chanoyu. He created a four-and-a-half-mat tea room, simplifying decoration and limiting the number of participants in tea gatherings, thus fostering a more intimate atmosphere.
Over time, chanoyu spread among the wealthy merchants of Sakai, who had accumulated great fortunes. Within this affluent class, unique aesthetic sensibilities developed regarding tea utensils and tearooms. Sen no Rikyū (1522–1591), who perfected the way of tea, also came from a prosperous merchant family in Sakai.
During this period, Oda Nobunaga subdued the townspeople of Sakai and amassed numerous famous tea utensils, known as meibutsu. Tea gatherings became an indispensable part of samurai politics. Rikyū served Nobunaga as one of his tea masters (chashu), supporting political and social tea gatherings.
At that time, some of these meibutsu tea utensils were valued as highly as an entire castle.
National Treasure – Craft | Ido Tea Bowl (Kizaemon)
Kōhōan, sub-temple of Daitoku-ji / Kyoto
National Treasure – Shino Tea Bowl, named Unohanagaki
Collection of the Mitsui Memorial Museum
After the death of Oda Nobunaga, Sen no Rikyū served Toyotomi Hideyoshi. However, he later incurred Hideyoshi’s wrath and was ordered to commit seppuku, bringing his life to an end in 1591. After Rikyū’s death, his grandson Sōtan’s three sons founded the Omotesenke, Urasenke, and Mushanokōji Senke schools. Each lineage carried on Rikyū’s spirit, developing and preserving the culture of the tea ceremony.
Manners in Tea Ceremony (Seiya H.)
The other day at d:matcha’s Tea Business School, I spoke briefly about tea gatherings. During that time, students asked me about the minimum etiquette needed when attending one, so I’d like to explain that here.
Things to prepare:
- White socks
- Kaishi (Japanese paper)
- Kashi-kiri (sweet pick)
At the very least, I recommend preparing these. You can usually get them for around 1,000–2,000 yen.
Kaishi and a kashi-kiri are used when eating the Japanese sweets that are served before drinking matcha at a tea gathering. While some gatherings provide them, it’s safer to bring your own just in case. As for white socks, the principle in tea ceremony is to wear white tabi. The reason is that even when walking on tatami, the soles remain pure white—symbolizing the cleanliness of the room. Both the host and the guests wear them. You can attend a tea gathering in everyday clothes, but it’s best to change into white socks right before entering the tearoom. For guests wearing kimono, it is common to wear tabi covers over the tabi until entering, keeping them as white and clean as possible.
Points to keep in mind:
This may vary depending on the tea gathering, but I recommend avoiding the seat of the shōkyaku (the main guest), which is the position closest to the host and the alcove (tokonoma). The reason is that the shōkyaku has the role of conversing with the host, asking questions, and helping create the atmosphere of the gathering. Without knowledge of tea ceremony, this can be difficult. So, it’s best to wait until two or three other people have taken their seats first before you sit.
Finally:
There is usually time to view the utensils, but do not take too long. In many modern tea gatherings, dozens of guests are served and the gathering is repeated more than ten times a day. Once you’ve finished drinking your matcha, briefly appreciate the utensils and then allow the host to prepare for the next group. I’ve seen cases where guests were rushed while waiting, but then took their time once it was their turn. I’ve also seen someone scolded for being “too slow” even though they only looked at the utensils for 10 seconds.
All this may make tea gatherings sound strict, but in reality, they are warm, welcoming spaces where you can enjoy delicious Japanese sweets and matcha surrounded by beautiful utensils. For those interested in pottery or tea implements, it can be a particularly precious experience.
Of course, in modern tea gatherings it’s hard to create a leisurely atmosphere because so many guests must be welcomed, but I highly recommend experiencing one at least once.
About the Fields – Autumn Pruning and Tea Plant Vigor (Hiroki A.)
Autumn pruning, usually conducted around October, is one of the most important pruning tasks in tea cultivation. It plays a critical role in determining the quality and yield of the next year’s first flush (shincha). By leveling the harvesting surface and adjusting the depth of mechanical harvesting, farmers can balance the number of new shoots and the fullness of each shoot, maximizing both quality and yield.
This pruning removes a large number of autumn shoots. In many cases, these pruned shoots are harvested and processed into products such as hojicha (roasted green tea). For this reason, the terms autumn pruning and autumn tea are sometimes used interchangeably.
When performing autumn pruning, one of the most important factors to consider is the vigor of the tea plants. Vigor refers to the growth strength of the tea bushes. Tea fields with good vigor produce thick shoots with large leaves, all growing evenly. In contrast, weaker fields produce small, fragile shoots, uneven growth, thin leaf layers, and in severe cases, even bare branches may be visible through the canopy.
Tea fields vary in vigor, and pruning must be tailored accordingly. In vigorous fields, a leaf layer of about 7 cm is maintained during autumn pruning. In weaker fields, where the leaf layer is less than 5 cm, pruning is postponed until spring (spring pruning). This allows the leaves to continue photosynthesis from autumn to spring, promoting recovery and strengthening the plants.
Since the vigor of tea fields differs greatly, management must be adapted to each field’s condition. Practices such as shading cultivation can put stress on the plants, often weakening their vigor. To produce high-quality tea, it is essential to carefully assess the condition of the tea field and implement appropriate management.
Recipe: Vegan Matcha Pudding (Sora N.)
This time, I’d like to introduce a vegan pudding made with soy milk.
Ingredients
- Soy milk: 200 g
- Oil: 120 g
- Cane sugar: 30 g
- Matcha: 6 g
- Agar: 1 tsp
- Kudzu starch: 10 g
Tools
- Pot
- Mixer or blender
Instructions
-
Mix the soy milk and oil with a mixer or blender until slightly thickened. (A blender works faster.)
- Add the oil slowly in a thin stream while mixing.
- Combine the matcha and cane sugar, and mix with a whisk until no lumps remain.
-
Put steps ① and ② into a pot and heat until just before boiling. Add the agar and kudzu starch, and stir until dissolved.
- Kudzu starch tends to form lumps, so crush it finely before adding.
-
Once dissolved, strain the mixture and pour it into containers.
- It sets quickly from this point, so work fast.
- Chill in the refrigerator for 2–3 hours. Add toppings. (This time, I added extra matcha powder and kinako.)
This time, I tried making a matcha vegan pudding. The key to this recipe is emulsifying the soy milk and oil at the beginning. If you skip this step, the mixture will separate once poured into jars, leaving an unpleasant texture and appearance. Using a blender makes the process quick, but with a hand mixer it takes about twice as long. Since overmixing doesn’t cause any problems, it might actually be better to mix it a bit more than you think.
