November 2024 Newsletter

Autumn Bancha Harvest (Daiki T.)

From September to November each year, it’s the season for the autumn Bancha harvest. When done carefully, autumn pruning smooths the cutting surfaces, preparing the tea plants for the following spring. If pruning is too deep, the areas cut will not produce new buds during the spring new tea season, leading to significant reductions in yield. On the other hand, pruning too shallowly leaves unnecessary Bancha behind, which risks mixing with the spring buds during harvest and negatively affecting the tea quality. While the spring harvest itself is important, the pruning performed in autumn and spring is equally, if not more, crucial.

In Wazuka Town, it is common practice to bring the autumn tea buds to processing factories. For tea farmers, autumn buds are voluminous and returning them to the fields creates an overly thick organic layer, reducing the effectiveness of fertilizers in spring. Instead of disposing of or burning the excess leaves, farmers sell them to factories, even at low prices, resulting in a tradition of selling fresh autumn leaves to the factories. Autumn buds, often referred to as "Autumn Tencha," are exposed to strong summer sunlight and lack shading, making the leaves thicker. When ground, these leaves produce a yellowish powdered tea, which is distributed as low-cost matcha. 

At d:matcha, we have never used autumn buds for matcha production. Instead, we either sell the autumn leaves to factories or process them into other teas ourselves. This year, we experimented with processing the autumn buds into Hojicha (roasted tea) and black tea at our in-house factory. Typically, Hojicha is made by harvesting buds about a month after the first flush of sencha has been collected, before the second flush begins. However, as the number of Tencha fields has increased in recent years, the number of fields available for harvesting Hojicha has drastically decreased. Since Tencha fields undergo a 20-day shading period, harvesting both Spring and Summer Tencha leaves makes it nearly impossible to harvest buds for Hojicha production.

Additionally, at d:matcha, for tea fields located deep in the mountains, we intentionally conduct pruning in spring rather than autumn. This is done to delay the harvest period. After pruning, the buds continue to grow during the warmer period of late November, then enter dormancy during winter, resuming growth in early Spring.

By pruning in spring, we can reset the buds and ensure their growth begins after the warmer weather arrives, allowing us to delay the harvest. This reduces the risk of frost damage and spreads out the peak harvest and processing periods across different fields, offering better operational efficiency.

With our new Tencha Factory set to open next year, we may adopt different practices. However, one principle remains constant: d:matcha will never handle low-quality matcha that does not adhere to the original definition of authentic matcha (20 days of shading).

About Tea Farm: Post-Second Flush Bancha Pruning (Hiroki A.)

In our tea farm management, we harvest tea twice annually: The first flush (ichibancha) and the second flush (nibancha). Before each harvest, we perform bancha pruning, a process that smoothens the surface of the tea garden. Bancha pruning is conducted at three key times:

• Autumn pruning (spring bancha): Before the first flush
• Post-first flush pruning: Before the second flush
• Post-second flush pruning: After the second flush

Purposes of Bancha Pruning

The primary goal of bancha pruning is to prepare the tea garden’s surface for harvest. However, it also serves other crucial functions:

• Controlling the height of the tea plants
• Removing old or diseased leaves to maintain a healthy garden
• Promoting uniform growth of autumn shoots after the second flush 

Post-Second Flush Pruning

Post-second flush pruning requires careful adjustment of pruning depth and consideration of whether pruning is even necessary, depending on the condition of the tea garden. Poor decisions can weaken the plants, preventing the tea canopy from developing properly by the time of the autumn harvest. This could negatively impact both the yield and quality of the first flush tea in the following year.

If post-second flush pruning is skipped, the pruning depth during post-first flush pruning is increased. This deeper pruning can maintain the garden’s health even without post-second flush pruning.

Outcomes of Proper vs. Improper Pruning

• Left Photo: A tea garden with properly executed post-second flush pruning shows a robust tea canopy and healthy foliage.
• Right Photo: A garden where pruning was mishandled shows weak growth, areas with dead branches, and poor leaf coloration and density.

Challenges in Non-Pesticide Tea Gardens

This year, several tea gardens exhibited poor growth conditions. As our tea garden management avoids the use of pesticides, bancha pruning plays an even more critical role in maintaining plant health. Damage from pests and diseases can negatively affect the development of autumn shoots, making precise pruning management essential.

This year was a humbling reminder of the importance of careful pruning practices, teaching us to adopt even tighter management approaches to maintain the health and productivity of our tea gardens.

Kanayamidori: The Underrated Matcha (S. Mahdaria)

At d:matcha, we celebrate the diversity of matcha cultivars, each with its own distinct personality and flavor. Among the twelve cultivars we introduce to customers, Gokou, Okumidori, and Kanayamidori often take center stage during our Tea Tasting sessions. Gokou is cherished for its rich sweetness, while Okumidori delights with its smooth and balanced profile. Yet Kanayamidori, with its vegetal notes and light astringency, is sometimes overlooked.

This oversight, however, belies the true beauty and benefits of Kanayamidori matcha. Often, tea enthusiasts gravitate toward the sweeter or milder cultivars, but those willing to explore Kanayamidori are rewarded with a unique flavor journey and a wealth of health benefits. Kanayamidori has rich methylated catechin which is good for some allergy. its earthy, slightly bold taste speaks to its connection to the lush fields of Shizuoka.

Kanayamidori’s flavor profile is a reflection of its character. While it carries a subtle astringency, this quality is balanced by a light umami and a clean, refreshing finish. For those who appreciate complexity, Kanayamidori is a revelation—a matcha that invites you to slow down and engage all your senses.

Beyond its flavor, Kanayamidori is a nutritional powerhouse. Packed with antioxidants, particularly catechins like EGCG, it supports cellular health and combats free radicals. Its high L-theanine content promotes relaxation and mental clarity, creating a harmonious balance of calm and focus. In a fast-paced world, these benefits make Kanayamidori a tea for both body and mind.

At d:matcha, we take pride in helping customers discover the hidden gems among our cultivars. During tea tastings, we share the story of Kanayamidori and guide participants to appreciate its depth. Slowly but surely, perceptions shift. Customers who once underestimated it find themselves drawn to its nuanced flavor and rejuvenating qualities.

Kanayamidori may not have the immediate allure of Gokou or Okumidori, but for those who give it a chance, it reveals a profound richness. It is a testament to the idea that sometimes, the most rewarding experiences lie just beyond our first impressions. I personally enjoy Kanayamidori in my matcha mocktail.

Choosing a Chawan (by Seiya H.)

During our tours, I often get asked, “What makes a good chawan (matcha bowl)?” This is a wonderfully thoughtful question, though not an easy one to answer. The qualities of a "good" chawan depend greatly on personal preferences. However, I’d like to share some examples of features I personally appreciate in a chawan. (Please take this as just my individual perspective.)

1. A Rounded Base

The ideal matcha has a creamy texture and fine froth, which is easier to achieve with a bowl that has a rounded base. For me, this is the most important factor when making delicious matcha. Some chawans have a flatter base; in those cases, tilting the bowl slightly can help concentrate the water in one spot, making whisking easier. (Just a note: some tea instructors might frown upon this, so if you do it, tilt the bowl just a little—about the width of a finger—so it’s not noticeable!)

2. A Smooth Interior

The texture inside the chawan also plays a role. Some ceramic finishes are naturally rougher, which, in my experience, not only makes it harder to create a smooth froth but can also damage the delicate tips of the chasen (bamboo whisk). Some chawans are glazed on the inside to achieve a smooth surface, which helps maintain the chasen and improve whisking performance.

3. Cherish What You Love, Regardless of Price

Chawans come in a wide range of prices, but the best one for you is the one that speaks to you. If you find a chawan you truly love the look of, that’s a great choice. While it might be practical to use more affordable bowls for daily practice, taking the time to explore tools in specialty shops can lead you to a chawan that feels perfect for you.

Some potters put special thought into the chawan's rim and foot. For example, the rim might be crafted to hold the tea scoop (chashaku) in a balanced position during a tea ceremony. Similarly, the foot of the bowl (kodai) is often designed to make it easy to grasp at specific moments in the tea-making process.

Ultimately, the best chawan is the one that enhances your enjoyment of matcha. While its compatibility with the tea is a matter of personal preference, a well-loved bowl can make every sip feel special. I hope you find a chawan that helps you create and savor the perfect cup of matcha.