April 2025 Newsletter

Trying Aigamo, the (Duck) Farming and the Spring Landscape of Tea Fields and Rice Paddies (Daiki T.)

Spring has returned once again, bringing with it the season for shading our tea fields and planting rice.

This year, the prolonged cold weather made it difficult for the soil temperature to rise, resulting in varying sprouting times depending on the tea cultivar. Fortunately, this allowed our work to be more evenly spread out compared to last year, when all the buds emerged at once, making the shading process quite hectic.

Among the varieties, Okumidori, a late-budding cultivar, is growing slowly and steadily. This variation in timing is actually beneficial for us farmers, as it helps stagger the harvest and contributes to producing higher-quality tea. By early May, in our base area of Yubune, we had already completed the shading process for most fields except for the slower-growing Okumidori and Gokou.

Meanwhile, in our rice fields, the process begins with fertilization, followed by rough plowing, then fine leveling (known as shirokaki), and finally transplanting the rice seedlings. The fine leveling process helps create a smooth, even field by kneading the clay-rich soil, which improves water retention. A field that holds water evenly suppresses weed growth and can increase overall rice yield.

This year, we’re also taking on a new challenge: Aigamo farming. This traditional method involves releasing ducklings into the rice paddies after planting. The ducks naturally eat weeds and harmful insects, while their droppings enrich the soil as fertilizer.

About a week after transplanting, the ducklings are introduced into the paddies and are removed once the rice begins to form grains—otherwise, the ducks would eat the rice itself.

One surprising lesson from a farmer in Kyoto who operates over 1 hectare of Aigamo farming is the need to thoroughly protect the ducklings. Natural predators like crows, hawks, eagles, raccoons, foxes, and weasels pose constant threats. To guard against aerial attacks, we install fishing lines above the paddies, and at night, we build coops to shelter the ducks from weasels, which are especially dangerous. Since these ducks weren’t raised in the wild, they lack natural defense instincts and are very vulnerable.

When their work is done, the ducks may be kept as pets, fattened for about two weeks and consumed, or sold to duck meat suppliers. As for myself, I’m not sure I’ll be able to eat these new “colleagues” once we’ve worked together—but my goal is to raise them with care and ensure they can fulfill their important mission in the fields.

Under the Sakura, a Shared Bowl of Matcha (S. Mahdaria)

This month feels especially dear to me, as this Spring marks my second year living in Japan and diving deep into the world of Japanese tea culture. Every day, I brew tea for both our d:matcha customers and myself — and every day, I discover something new. I have never once felt bored; instead, I find endless joy in immersing myself in this beautiful tradition.

When the Sakura (cherry blossoms) began to bloom, I felt a special calling: To perform a tea ceremony for myself while enjoying Hanami, the cherished Japanese custom of appreciating the beauty of flowers, especially cherry blossoms. Hanami is much like a picnic under the sakura trees, where people gather, eat, drink, and celebrate the fleeting beauty of the blossoms.

To make this moment even more memorable, I decided to rent a Hakama, a traditional Japanese garment. A Hakama is a type of wide-legged pleated pants usually worn over a kimono, often seen in ceremonies, martial arts, and traditional events.

Wearing a hakama has been a long-time dream of mine. Growing up watching anime like Inuyasha and Samurai X, I was always inspired by the elegant, powerful look of the characters dressed in Hakama. I always thought it looked incredibly cool, and I wanted to capture myself doing a hanami matcha ceremony wearing one.

Together with some friends, I went to Kyoto for this special day. They kindly helped me take photos — a huge thank you to Emma, who documented this precious journey. I wore a purple hakama paired with a black kimono adorned with delicate purple flower patterns. It felt so beautiful! 

We chose a spot by the Takase River in the Pontocho area, one of the most charming corners of Kyoto. As I was quietly preparing my matcha, something truly magical happened: local people, curious and smiling, naturally gathered around me and joined the session. I hadn’t planned for an audience — my original idea was simply to record myself — but it turned into a shared experience. We ended up passing around one bowl of usucha (thin matcha) among six people, laughing and connecting.

That small, spontaneous moment of togetherness — strangers bonding over a single bowl of matcha under the blooming sakura — touched my heart deeply. I’m endlessly grateful for it.

The Health Benefits of Green Tea (by Misato T.)

What Components Are Found in Green Tea?

• Water-Soluble Components - Catechins (tannins), caffeine, amino acids, theanine, organic acids, saponins, water-soluble pectin, flavonols, vitamin C, etc.
• Insoluble Components - β-carotene, vitamin E, chlorophyll, lipids, essential oils, etc.
• Water-Soluble and Insoluble Components - Minerals (such as calcium, phosphorus, potassium, manganese, magnesium, zinc), proteins, and dietary fiber.

Approximate composition: catechins (~15%), lipids (~5%), caffeine (~3%), proteins and amino acids (~25%), ash/minerals (~5%), and dietary fiber (~40%).

Catechins: A Key Health Component in Green Tea

Catechins are crucial chemical compounds in green tea, responsible for many of its health benefits. The main types, in descending order of abundance, are:

• Epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG)
• Epigallocatechin
• Epicatechin gallate (ECG)
• Epicatechin (EC)

Catechin Content by Tea Type

In general, sencha contains more catechins than gyokuro. This is because sencha is usually grown in full sunlight, while gyokuro is shade-grown, reducing catechin content due to lower sun exposure.

Japanese Tea vs. Global Teas

Compared to global teas, Japanese tea has a higher catechin content. As oxidation increases (e.g., in oolong and black tea), catechins decrease due to oxidation and polymerization into tannins. Though black tea has high tannin content, its catechin and vitamin C levels are much lower.

Health Benefits of Green Tea

Tea has long been enjoyed as a healing beverage. Even before scientific validation, it was valued for its health benefits. Today, research is increasingly confirming its positive effects.

• Antioxidant Effects - Catechins and vitamin C in green tea act as water-soluble antioxidants. Vitamin E in tea leaves (insoluble) also contributes if leaves are consumed directly.
• Cancer Prevention - Research shows green tea catechins inhibit mutations and the growth of mutated cells. Its antioxidant and anti-metastatic properties contribute to cancer prevention.
• Prevention of Arteriosclerosis - Catechins help suppress the rise of HDL cholesterol in the blood and slow cholesterol absorption in the digestive tract.
• Blood Pressure Control - Catechins are thought to inhibit the activity of renin, an enzyme involved in blood pressure elevation.
• Blood Sugar Control & Anti-Obesity Effects - Catechins inhibit sugar-decomposing enzymes like amylase and sucrase and help boost liver fat metabolism.
• Anti-Allergy Effects - Methylated catechins, especially effective against hay fever and allergic rhinitis, have double the anti-allergy activity of EGCG. Cultivars like Benifuuki and Kanayamidori are rich in these compounds.
• Relaxation Effect - Theanine in green tea promotes relaxation and improves sleep quality—explaining the soothing effect of drinking tea.

Green tea also has antibacterial and antiviral properties. Combining health benefits and flavor, it's an exceptionally appealing beverage.

About the Tea Fields: Tea Season Arrives (Hiroki A.)

This year, the tea season has arrived slightly later than usual. Around mid-April, the new tea buds began to sprout, gradually growing and creating a noticeable seasonal change—the tea fields' surface started shifting from the deep green of mature leaves to the light green of new growth.

So far, the plants have grown without any major frost damage, but the nighttime temperatures remain unstable. Every cold night brings renewed concern over potential frost damage. These low night temperatures significantly affect the growth of tea. When nighttime temperatures are low, the new buds don’t grow as well, and both their color and flavor are diminished. I hope the climate stabilizes soon, allowing the new buds to grow healthily without the threat of frost.

In Wazuka Town, the demand for matcha both domestically and internationally has surged in recent years, leading to a substantial increase in tencha production. Producing tencha involves a shading process, and if the new buds continue to grow steadily, black synthetic fiber sheets known as kanreisha (shade nets) will begin to cover the surface of the tea fields in many areas around the end of April.

Because of this, in tea fields used for tencha production, the colors change dramatically—from dark green to light green, and from light green to black. As temperatures stabilize, the growth of the new buds will accelerate rapidly. The timing of applying the shade for tencha has a significant impact on the final product’s quality, so getting the timing right is crucial.

Busy days lie ahead, chasing the growth of the new buds and rushing to get the work done.

From Field to Mill (Matthew D.) 

Another month has come and gone. Whereas last March and the start of April were dominated by the rush of guests visiting d:matcha with two tours a day being all too common.  We have now arrived at the time for covering the fields prior to our first harvest of the year.  In addition to the still busy attending to tour participants, every day is increasingly dominated by the pre-harvest preparations. With the greater need for bodies in the field, it was a pleasure to meet the next group of able-bodied, enthusiastic interns—although the full-time members of the team are an amazing group, I am always impressed by the contributions of the interns that join us each month.  Whatever they might (initially) lack in technique, they more than make up for with the enthusiasm and energy that they infuse into our team.  And, within a short time, (if not challenging the more experienced members) they are certainly making me work hard to stay ahead.  

As things become busier in the fields, we need to re-double our efforts in other areas of our operation such as packing and shipping so as not to fall behind.  As such, in the last few weeks, I was pleased to be introduced to the ball mill.  

Whereas traditionally, a stone mill was likely to be used to grind Tencha into Matcha, at approximately 40g/hour/mill (or just under 1kg/day), the volume of a typical stone mill is unable to keep up with the volume that we need to process.  A ball mill consists primarily of a large metal barrel with large bolts protruding into the inside.  As the barrel rotates, these bolts cause several hundred ceramic balls to pulverize the tencha into the fine power that we all recognize as matcha.  And, with a capacity of up to 30kg/load, and about an hour/kg, we can run much more through a ball mill than we could ever hope to process with a stone mill.  

I will say tending to a ball mill is not the meditative exercise that is conjured up when imagining the more traditional stone mill.  In fact, as the finer the powder the more deafening the sound of the ceramic balls clashing with the inside of the vessel.  However, there is something exciting about the sight of nearly 30kg of freshly milled matcha which greets me when I open the hatch on the end of the mill to empty it.  After unloading the mill, I run the matcha through a very large sifter before sealing it into approximately 10kg bags which are then handed off to the capable hands of our packers who dexterously, hand fill the various packages which will keep our matcha fresh until ready for enjoyment of our customers.