By Misato T.

The Spread of Tea to the World

The tea plant (Camellia sinensis) is believed to have originated in the mountainous regions of Yunnan Province in China, near the border with Vietnam. Around 2700 BCE, the legendary Emperor Shennong is said to have discovered tea as a medicine, and during the Tang dynasty, it spread throughout China.

In the 16th century, the Portuguese were the first Europeans to taste tea in China. Later, the Dutch began exporting it to countries such as England, and by the 17th century, tea had become popular across Europe.

Large-scale tea production in India began in 1823, when the British adventurer Robert Bruce discovered a new tea variety, later known as the “Assam type,” growing wild in Assam. Since this variety suited India’s climate, large-scale plantation agriculture quickly spread across the country.

The Beginnings of Tea in Japan

In Japan, it is believed that people had long brewed infusions from various leaves—similar to herbal teas today. However, the first clear record of Camellia sinensis being consumed dates back to 815 (the Heian period). It is thought that emperors and monks drank tea brought back from their studies in Tang China.

At that time, tea was not the same as the tea we know today. Instead, it was likely “compressed tea” (mocha 餅茶), which was popular in Tang China. Its color is believed to have been closer to black tea.

The Beginnings of Tea Cultivation in Japan

In 1191, the monk Eisai, who had studied Buddhism in China, is said to have established Japan’s first tea garden in Hirado, Nagasaki, shortly after returning home. In his book Kissa Yōjōki (Drinking Tea for Health), he begins with the words: “Tea is the elixir of life. It is the wondrous art of prolonging one’s years.” The work emphasizes the many health benefits of tea.

Descriptions in the book suggest that tea in Japan at that time was consumed in a form similar to the powdered tea drunk in China. In Japan, this practice later evolved into the unique culture of the tea ceremony (chanoyu) and matcha. In China, however, loose-leaf tea (sancha 散茶) eventually became mainstream, and the custom of drinking powdered tea faded away.

The Spread of Tea Cultivation and Zen

Eisai gifted tea seeds to the monk Myōe of Kōzan-ji Temple in Kyoto, from which tea cultivation gradually spread, with Kyoto at its center. Tea, valued for its ability to dispel drowsiness, became an essential aid for monks engaged in rigorous training.

The Flourishing of the Tea Ceremony and Politics

Murata Jukō (1422–1502), regarded as the founder of the Japanese tea ceremony, studied under the Zen monk Ikkyū and incorporated Zen philosophy into chanoyu. He designed the four-and-a-half-mat tea room, simplifying decoration and limiting participants, creating a more intimate setting.

Chanoyu later spread among wealthy merchants of Sakai, who developed refined aesthetic sensibilities around tea utensils and tearooms. Sen no Rikyū (1522–1591), who perfected the way of tea, also came from a prosperous merchant family in Sakai.

During this time, Oda Nobunaga subdued the townspeople of Sakai and amassed numerous famous tea utensils (meibutsu). Tea gatherings became an indispensable part of samurai politics. Rikyū served Nobunaga as one of his tea masters, supporting political and social gatherings.

Some of these meibutsu tea utensils were valued as highly as an entire castle.

National Treasure – Craft | Ido Tea Bowl (Kizaemon)

Kōhōan, sub-temple of Daitoku-ji / Kyoto

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National Treasure – Shino Tea Bowl, named Unohanagaki

Collection of the Mitsui Memorial Museum

After Rikyū

After the death of Oda Nobunaga, Sen no Rikyū served Toyotomi Hideyoshi. However, he later incurred Hideyoshi’s anger and was ordered to commit seppuku, bringing his life to an end in 1591.

After Rikyū’s death, his grandson Sōtan’s three sons founded the Omotesenke, Urasenke, and Mushanokōji Senke schools. Each lineage carried on Rikyū’s spirit, developing and preserving the culture of the tea ceremony.